Showing posts with label fort. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fort. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 03, 2009

Rajasthan trip - The Capital

09 Jan 2009 People: Alpana, Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro, Chandan, John, Gayatri.

John had planned a tight itinerary for us for the next two days. A vehicle was booked for us for our time in Jaipur at Rs. 1000 per day. We woke up in the morning and went straight to the market for breakfast. We hogged on chaat and headed to Jaigarh fort. It is a huge place with the highlight being one of the biggest cannons you can see, with a range of over 30 kms. The fort periphery is vast and you can see the outside walls going for as far as you can see.

The cannon at Jaigarh fort

We then moved on to Nahargarh fort, which is a little more beautiful than Jaigarh. Jaigarh is anyway knows to be popular for its size rather than its beauty. While at Nahargarh, I stumbled upon a beautiful dugout and called Chandan to take some pictures. We then realized that there was a way to go down inside it and called everyone else. At the bottom, we took many many pictures and sat down to look at the magnificence of the architecture.

Wrinkles on stone - the dugout

This dugout is, by the way, the same place where some scenes of Rang De Basanti were shot...this is the "masti ki paathshaala"! The Nahargarh fort is also where the auditorium scene of RDB was shot, when auditions are taken for the roles of various people in the documentary they are going to make. I can only imagine all the performances that took place here in the Maharaja's time!

Manish jumping from the stage on the crowd (or well....erm...just on the camera)

Still 09 Jan 2009 People: Alpana, Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro, Chandan, John, Gayatri + Vedant.

Our next stop was Amer fort, but before that we had to pick up Vedant who had just reached Jaipur by train. We asked him to get to Amer by a cab and we saw him there, put his luggage in our vehicle and went in Amer fort.

Amer is mindblowingly beautiful. You enter into the main compound through a gate having a plethora of colors. Then there is the Diwan-e-aam, with its myriad pillars and the Sheesh Mahal, with mirrors showing a beautiful imagery of light and relection. There were also colorful gardens adorning the interior and exterior of the palace.

Entrance to main compound at Amer fort

Diwan-e-aam

Ceiling at Sheesh Mahal

Garden inside the palace

Garden outside the palace - view from the top of the palace

But what made everything worth it was the guide we had. We hadn't taken any guides at Jaigarh or Nahargarh and decided to take one here. The fella quoted Rs. 200 for a group of more than 6 people and Rs. 150 for lesser. Since we were more, we haggled for him to get us the lower price. He finally agreed and gave us on of the most informative tours we've ever had. He took us through each and every corner of the place, explaining the history and architecture behind it. In fact, he was prompt with all the answers to our questions or doubts as well and seemed to know the subject matter like an expert. His erudition was a league above the guides at Ranthambore fort and Taj Mahal. He impressed us so much that we eventually gave him his Rs. 200 because we really felt he deserved it.

The guide at Amer. You can tell we are engrossed! L-R: Pedro, Nanu, Guide, me, Vedant, Roopali, Manish, Gayatri, John.

Note: When you're at Amer fort, take one of the guides. They are excellent!

We finished seeing the fort by 1800 hrs and then made our way to the memorabilia store at the exit. I bought some wonderful saris for mom and myself and a beautiful painting for home. However, you may want to skip the sari buying here and take a look at Jaipur market instead. You'll get similar stuff for half the price, if you bargain well.

Buying complete, we were off to Choki Dhani for dinner and a Rajasthani cultural experience. They put on a great show there, with folk music and dance, fair rides like the ferris wheel, camel rides, and so much more. There are also little stalls that are either selling food or small memorabilia items or have games on offer. I hung out with John, Vedant and Chandan, playing each and every stupid game - shooting balloons on the wall, throwing rings on stuff to win them, dropping bowling pins with a ball, and what not!

But the main attraction was the food! When you enter Choki Dhani, you get a coupon with the time that you can sit to eat (like in a restaurant when there is waiting). We could only sit at 2300 hrs and so we passed our time first with all the rides and games and stall food. At our stipulated time, we sat down in true Indian style. On the floor with our legs crossed paalti maarkar. One by one, the food started coming in. Yumm....!!! What was awesome was the guys who serve the food, would not listen to you when you insisted that you'd eaten enough. No siree! "You have to eat more than that!!!!" Plop! Another spoon of food in your plate! We then realized we had to eat slowly so that our plates didn't look too empty. At the end of it, we were super stuffed and I got high like I always do when I eat too much! That means that I was dancing and going round in circles around myself at one point of time, but lets not talk about it too much now.

Back to our hotel, we played more Uno until most people were asleep. At the end, it was just me, Chandan, Manish, John and Gayatri. John made us play a game in which we all tell each other what our first impression on everyone in the room was and what we thought of them now. I remember saying that I always thought of Chandan as a quiet, nice boy. I remember stressing on the word nice. And how I thought John was a player and that kinda hadn't (and still hasn't) changed up until the game. And how Manish was and is one of my best friends ever. And how I appreciated Gayatri for being a chilled out chick and coming for every trip we have, irrespective of any problems or issues within the group. We should play that game again!

10 Jan 2009 People: Alpana, Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro, Chandan, John, Gayatri + Fahim.

Early next morning, Fahim arrived, but he was not gonna stay with us that day. He would visit Ajmer Sharif and then join us in the evening. A whole bunch of people were leaving on 10th and a lot of shopping had to be done. So Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro and John left the hotel by 0900 hrs while the rest of us took our time to wake up, get ready and finally leave. We met the rest of the gang directly for lunch at 1300 hrs at Jaipur station. We said our goodbyes to them and decided to see the city in the vehicle that we still had.

Jaipur is a gorgeous city. The buildings are stunning and the statues and memorials on road junctions are stare-worthy. Old Jaipur, which is supposed to be pink, is not really pink. Its brown. Seriously. That's not pink.

Chandan, Gayatri, Vedant and I stopped at the Jal Mahal, in the middle of a lake, as the name suggests. We then headed to Jaipur fort in the main city. With a guide, we wandered the fort with trivia about the history and artifacts kept there. It was a good looking place, but I think we'd had enough of forts for a while! Make a trip to the memorabilia store in the fort. You get awesome coffee mugs for Rs. 20 bucks each. They're a steal! We picked up one titled Nine Boys. It's a wierdass picture that'll make you think..."Whaaa!!!" Lol.

Nine boys

It was 1700 hrs now and Hawa Mahal had already shut. We just took a look from outside and headed for the market to shop! We bought a lot of bandhni material and I also bought another sari that was similar to the one at the store outside Amer fort for half the price. By this time, Fahim was back and while we (Chandan, Vedant and I) were finished with our shopping (erm, actually my shopping), Gayatri still had more to go. We were tired and headed back to the car while Fahim took care of his woman. We ate some more chaat and hot milk, and after a proper dinner at some pointlessly classy restaurant somewhere (I don't remember the name of the restaurant or the location!) for the five of us, we headed towards the train station where we had to catch a 2357 hrs train to Jaisalmer.

We reached the station about 20 minutes before time. To top that, the train was late. We stood at the platform and bought chains for our luggae (first time!). A Palace on Wheels had just arrived and with whatever glimpses we could get of the inside, it was spectacular! The beautiful beds, the resturant, the lights, the bar....all of it! Vedant and I walked the length of the train and ogled at the expensive upholstery and the rich people inside.

Most of Chandan's platform time was eaten by a serious discussion between him and his girlfriend (or ex girlfriend, debatably) while Gayatri and Famu were chatting about each other's days. Vedant was checking out everything at the station while I don't remember doing anything interesting.

While at Jaipur market, I remember telling everyone to buy blankets if they didn't have one already. Chandan and I were the only two who had endured the last train journey's cold and we had to warn everybody! Vedant, for some reason, didn't take us seriously and pooh-poohed our suggestions. So that night, when the train finally arrived, and we took our berths and went off to sleep, Vedan't probably had one of the worst nights in his life. With everyone sleeping comfortably inside blankets, Vedu couldn't sleep one wink. He was lying down, but the chill would not let him get any rest. We had a bottle of whiskey in a bag and he took 4-5 swigs from it. That gave him some warmth at least. He woke me up somewhere around 3 or 4 am and apparantly told me his situation, but when I sleep, I act subconciously and I don't remember a word of what he or I said! So I wasn't of any help to him. When the sun was rising and it was getting a little warmer, Vedu finally caught a few winks, though it wasn't all that comfortable - the windows would not close completely and sand from outside kept making its way through to him. Poor Vedu! If only he'd taken a blanket!

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Rajasthan trip - We start at Ranthambore!

03 Jan 2009 People: Alpana, Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro, Chandan, John.

It was one of those days. One of those days when we had to meet up again. Meet up again for another year and another vacation. The one we always do year on year. The one that keeps us ever so close even after all these years. It was one of those days :)

I had a lot of free time at work before we planned this trip and so I did most of the train ticket booking. Chandan and I spent most of our time mapping our routes and deciding which places to include in the trip and which to skip. Our final route was Mumbai - Ranthambore - Agra - Jaipur - Jaisalmer - Jodhpur - Mumbai.

We took the Jaipur Superfast from Borivali at 1615 hrs that would reach Sawai Madhopur at 0815 hrs the next day.

That's us in the train compartment. L-R: John, Pedro, Roopali, me, Manish, Nanu. Chandan's taking the pic.

Note: Ranthambore is a 15 minute drive from Sawai Madhopur. There are a lot of hotels just 5-10 minutes from Sawai Madhopur station, but ask for one very close to the jungle.

The train ride was expected to be comfortable coz it was winter and so we did not choose an AC compartment. But what we didn't realize was that there's also something like "too cold"! In the middle of the night, when Rajasthan arrived, it got freezing cold. And a few of us were not carrying any blankets or quilts. Big mistake! We only got a few hours of interrupted sleep.

04 Jan 2009 People: Alpana, Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro, Chandan, John.

But when we reached Sawai Madhopur the next morning, it was all worth it. We exited the station to be welcomed by dense morning fog. It was a refreshing change for all of us Bombayites, for whom fog is an affair to remember!

The fog outside Sawai Madhopur station

Once we were finished being awed by nature, we had to get back to more humanly ways. We needed transport to check out a few hotels in Ranthambore. We haggled with one Jeep driver to fit us all in one Jeep with our luggage for Rs. 200. Its too much, but we had no option.

We checked out a place called Tiger Den first, which is a really beautiful place, but it's a more showy beautiful. Let me explain. The place had perfectly pruned lawns and a slightly palatial decor. It didn't bring out the raw beauty of the jungle - which is what we were at Ranthambore for! We then checked out a place called Tiger Moon resort which we totally fell in love with. Rustic looking cottages amidst trees and bushes. It was perfectly landscaped to look like the jungle. And the best part of it all? It is just a few meters from the jungle boundary! I'm not kidding - a few meters! In fact, later in the night, one of the hotel guys took us to a vantage point in the hotel with a large torch (followed by our mag light) to look inside the jungle boundaries. He said that leopard sightings were a usual occurrence there and sometimes in the resort as well. Though he quickly gave a disclaimer saying it usually happened at night and nobody was ever hurt in the resort. So while we were looking for a potential leopard or who knows, maybe a tiger, we saw a quadrupedal in the distance, looking straight at the torch, its eyes shining. Now we had two factions amongst us, those that thought it was a leopard, and those that thought it was a smaller cat or maybe even a dog! Anyway, I can safely say it was arguably a leopard and if it was, yay! We saw a leopard!

So anyway, my point is that the resort was stunning with its serenity and natural ambiance. Here's a picture of our cottage. Each structure like this one had 4 rooms - 2 on each floor. We had 3 of the 4 rooms in this one and the 4th one wasn't let out to anyone.


I must also take this time to appreciate the management and staff of this resort. Even before we got to this place, I was checking out hotels online and dropped enquiry emails to several hotels and was more than pleased with the response I got from Tiger Moon. The guy who replied, Ajith Nair, also mentioned his contact details and so I called him up. He was very courteous and understood that we couldn't spend too much and agreed on a discount. Eventually, when we decided that we would find a place in Ranthambore after reaching there, I called Ajith to tell him that it was looking a little too expensive for us even after the discount and so we would search for hotels when we reached Ranthambore. Ajith was cordial as usual and told me that we could come to Tiger Moon anyway to join him for a cup of tea anytime!

However, once we saw the place, we just knew that we had to stay there! It was a weird calling for all of us and we decided that it was worth how much we would pay.

Note: We paid Rs. 5600 per head for 2 nights / 3 days. This included, and I quote, "all meals – (02 Breakfasts,02 lunches,02 dinners ), 02 Park Safaris to Ranthambhore National Park by canter, Visit to Ranthambhore Fort, Nature Walk & Bird Watching Session, Visit to historical ruins, Barbecue dinner with folk dance / puppet show around bone fire, Wildlife film shows & indoor & outdoor games". This was Ajith's contact details:
Ajith Nair
Hand Phones - 098202 27737 / 09833788358

Indian Adventures Chain Of Wildlife & Adventure Resorts

257 S. V. Road
Next to Movie Time Theatre,
Kader Furniture Building,

Bandra (W),
Mumbai 400 050
Tel Nos : 022 26408742, 26406399, 26433622/ 26428244

Fax No : 022 26458401

Email : iawr@vsnl.com

Website : www.indianadventures.com


And we then unpacked our luggage in the rooms and sat out to have breakfast and tea by the poolside at Tiger Moon Resort, Ranthambore!

Poolside at Tiger Moon Resort, Ranthambore.

The same day, we took a canter ride to the jungle post lunch. Food at Tiger Moon is okay. Some dishes are really nice, but overall, its just average.

Note: A canter is an open-air 20 seater vehicle that takes you inside the jungle. It's an alternative for the jeep, which you need to book at least 20 days in advance. Ranthambore jungle is segregated into 5 zones. You do not choose which zone you go into, before a canter enters the jungle, the driver has to randomly pick a chit at the gate which decides which zone he has to go into. This ensures that the canters are evenly spaced out between zones.

The jungle is an awesome place. I love the feeling of uncertainty when you don't know what you may see. Unfortunately, we didn't get to see a tiger in this ride either (like our time in Jim Corbett - "North Trip: Part III - Tiger? No Tiger.") though we did see a lot of monkeys, peacocks, deer and many birds. This was zone 1 and it wasn't very interesting.

Note: Zones 2, 3 and 5 are supposed to be the best. If you are in a position to choose, pick one of these.

Eventually, we got a little bored and ended up taking pictures of mostly ourselves.

Us in the canter

Later that night, there was a bonfire with (crappy) barbeque food and some random dance show which was just okay. That was then followed by a proper dinner (wow we were hungry!). Chandan had brought some Black Label from his recent trip to the US and he, John and I had a couple of drinks before the show. Nobody else was drinking this time....mannn... :( But we all talked while at dinner and spent the rest of the night discussing personal horror stories. Roopali has some spine chilling crazy ones to tell!

05 Jan 2009 People: Alpana, Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro, Chandan, John.

We got up late and spent the next day whiling away our time by the pool side, talking general shit. In the afternoon, after some lunch, we decided to make a trip to Ranthambore fort, which is inside the periphery of the jungle. While inside, the guide told us that at the end of the fort, there is a place where leopards are seen many times. No guide was taking customers there, so we decided to give it a try. It was a beautiful place with a great view of the jungle from the top of a hill. No leopards though :( We decided to head back, which is when our guide came up with a brilliant plan of taking a shortcut. Result - we got lost! It was getting late and the sun was coming down. Bad time for us to encounter a leopard, we thought! We were stuck outside the fort...we could see the fort walls, but could not find a way to get inside it. We started walking along the fort walls. We were in the jungle, with itchy plants on one side and spiky ones on the other. We thought it best to endure spikes rather than itches, with potential leopards nearby! At one point of time, we found a way to get on top of the fort wall (but still not inside it!) and had to walk across 6 inch wall ledges to make our way through. We had to form human chains and walk sideways. Thank god nobody fell! This was almost like a trek! We have no pictures from here coz all our energies were channelized on getting back to the main entrance of the jungle before dusk! And it was nearing closer every minute!

Finally, we reached some village from where, a popular temple was nearby. Nanu and John went in for an aarti that had just started while the rest of us munched on something to eat. But it wasn't all over! We were still within the fort walls, which closed at 1730 hrs. It was already 1730 hrs and we were running out of time! Another race against time (and darkness) saw us groping in darkness towards the gate, which we managed to get through just in time. The main gate was already closed and we had to use a smaller entrance to get out.

We got into our jeep (given by the hotel, along with a driver, for the fort tour) and sped to the jungle exit where security gave a piece of their mind to the driver and the guide. You see, the entrance/exit closes at 1800 hrs while it was 1900 hrs when we got there. With wild animals around, its quite dangerous to be in the jungle after dusk. But we said sorry and were on our way to the resort with yet another day gone by.

06 Jan 2009
People: Alpana, Manish, Roopali, Nanu, Pedro, Chandan, John.

We had another canter ride in our package so off we went the next morning. It was very very very cold and we had to pack ourselves in woollen and then use the hotel's blankets on top of all that to keep ourselves warm. We would be shivering in the jungle!

This time, we went to zone 3 which at least had more fauna than zone 1. Apart from the regular deer and peacock sightings, we saw crocodiles and jackals. We also saw this one species of bird that followed us everywhere! Apparantly, they liked biscuits as much as we do and one of them even gobbled up Manish's Halls when offered!

Monkeys

Peacock

Parrots

Food loving bird with Chandan

No tiger yet again. Disappointed, we decided to leave Ranthambore and head to Agra to see the Taj Mahal since most of us hadn't seen it before.

By the way, 2 months later, Nanu's colleagues went to Ranthambore and saw a tigress with cubs on their first canter ride in the jungle. Were we jealous or what???

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